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1965-66 E2 Body Kit Tips & Tricks for Installation  

Installation Instructions

Q. What lights can I use on the lower middle apron for my E2 Kit?

A. We have both the small lights next to the lower center grill, and the center driving lights here Fog Lights.  Also consider Tri-Bar headlights.

Q. Does the Sinister Stang have the same size wheels and tires in the front and rear?

A. No. The fronts are 17x8 with a 4.5 inch backspace, The rear is 17x9 with a custom 5" backspace. Click here for more info on our set-up.

Q. Do the E2 flares work with rolled fender lips?

A. Yes if you're bonding or bolting them on!

Q. Does the Sinister Stang have the fender lips rolled?

A. Yes. They're rolled on the front, and it's modified heavily in the rear on the inside wheelhouses and outer fender lips. Click here for more info on the wheelhouse mod

Q. I know the E2 rear flares are 1.75", but do they give you 1.75" of extra tire clearance, assuming, of course, that your rear leaf springs don't squat too much?

A. The flare measurement is directly horizontal. The amount of flare you use will depend on how you install the flares. If you bolt them on or bond them without cutting the fenders/quarters, you will not gain anything. If you mold them in and eliminate the fender/quarter behind, you can make full use of the flare. If you end up cutting behind, make sure it's done professionally due to the nature of the unibody. Especially in the rear!

Q. What rearend are you running with your 5" backspaced wheels that does not come into contact with the leaf springs? (Versailles?)

A. This is a stock 1965-66 9" overall rear end width of 57.25"". The Versailles rear is wider 58.50". They are close to the springs but if you run the recommended Pan Hard Bar, and modify the lips and wheelhouses, you'll be fine. Here's a link to the wheelhouse mod documented.

Q. Couldn't you run a wider rear tire considering the fact that you're running 1/2" more backspacing than I am and you have flares?

A. Assuming you have a stock rear end width, the backspacing is only half the battle. The width of the rim in relation to the backspace is how much it will go out toward the fender. We're running a 9" rim. The 5" backspace would make the tire rub on the outside if wheel lips were not modified extensively. There was also a significant amount of massaging that was required to the inner wheelhouses so the 275 tire did not rub on the inside. Naturally, without modifications, the tire would sit about 1/4" from the front of the inner wheelhouse.

Q. What are the widest 17" wheels and tires you could use in the rear with the E2 flares in your opinion?

A. Basically what we are running 17x9 with a custom 5" backspace with a 275x40x17 tire. The 5" backspace would make the tire rub on the outside if wheel lips were not modified extensively. There was also a significant amount of massaging that was required to the inner wheelhouses so they did not rub on the inside. A Pan Hard Bar is highly recommended!

Q. Same question as No. 8 with respect to the front?

A. 17x8 with a 4.5" backspace. 225x45x17 or a 215x45x17, 1 degree negative camber and about 1 degree positive caster. A 4.75 BS is more favorable on the front.

Q. What tires fit that do not require modification to the lips and/or wheel houses?

A. The 17x8's fit all the way around with either a 4.5" or a 4.75 inch backspace. Here is a wheel chart that other people have tried and succeeded in running larger diameter tires on 1965-66 Mustangs. Wheel Chart

Q. Can the light housings that the little lights next to the headlights mount to, be purchased separately?

A. Unfortunately the light buckets are part of the Upper Nose Assembly. These parts are designed to be molded together to become a one piece upper nose. You can save money if you cutout and use the buckets from your original housings to mount the headlight adjusting assembly to.

Q. Can I eliminate certain parts of the body kit if I already have a fiberglass hood, and spoiler trunk?

A. The kit prices cannot be broken apart. The items would have to be purchased separately.

Q. Do you recommend bonding them at all and if so what bonding agent do you recommend?

A. We do not recommend the smoothed out look with the exception of the side skirts. On Sinister, we left the flares and side scoops looking attached. Sinister Side shot

Q. Do you just bolt or rivet the pieces on and leave it that way or do you add some type of body filler to blend the fiberglass to the metal? 

A. It's not recommended to go the mold in look but if you insist on this method, you should use Norton Speed Grip.

Q. If you do add some type of body filler, what do you recommend? 

A. Again Norton Speed Grip. is a urethane bonding adhesive that remains flexible but you can still sand and feather it. It is a paintable material and we haven't found a dual function bonding agent/body filler that can compete.

Q. I am also curious about what you do about the difference in thermal coefficient of expansion between the metal and fiberglass after the car is painted? 

A. This is why we recommend the bond on method still looking attached. You will never have the problem of cracks with our suggestion with the exception of the side skirt.

Q. Do you have any templates for areas such as the tail light installation, exhaust tip cut out on the rocker panel, side scoop bolt holes, etc?

A1. Unfortunately we have not have templates. Many people just do things their own way. Especially body shop guys. As for the tail lights, the bezel is the template. If you follow our instructions for the tail light install, you're good to go. Tail Light Kit Install

A2. It's a good idea to rivet the bottom of the skirts on while bonding. If you plan on running functional side exhaust, you want to cut the outer rocker area prior to attaching the skirts. The cut should be a little larger than the hole opening of the skirt. You will want to trim the pinch weld down there as well for the extra clearance. Having the tips in hand will help with the fitment issues. Last, it's a good idea to weld the fender to the rocker right below the front of the door jam to limit the fender flex and help to prevent cracking of the skirt to the body. This is a shot of the a custom run exhaust since the TCP center section will not allow our Dr Gas kits to work properly. It's required that you cut out the bottom of the skirt to allow the tip to pass through as shown in this picture. You can see the bottom has been removed as seen through the hole opening. It's also required, when using the E tips with the Dr Gas side exhaust kit, that you modify either the tip or the exhaust exit tube coming from the muffler, to work with the Dr Gas kit. This is because they are not designed in conjunction with one another and the only tip available, the E tip, fits the opening of the skirt perfectly.

A3 The bolts on the back of the scoops are pretty easy to line up. You can use them in the bonding process or just get a fast cure Speed Grip and hold them in place.

Q. How do you attach the 2.5 in. fog lights in the racing apron?

A. The driving lights have a small bracket screwed to the light housing. You basically fiberglass the bracket to the backside of the tube still leaving the light screwed to the bracket. This will allow you to unscrew the light and remove if needed in the future.

Another method is to fiberglass some adjustable stereo brackets to the back side of the apron to mount the light brackets to!

Further questions can be answered by going here: Technical Questions

 

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